We are just back from Puerto Escondido. The weather here is cooperating with some – but not us. The cloud forest weather which elates coffee growers is in full gear. The coffee plants did not have it good this past season. I am told there was too much rain; something much of the earth is lacking these days.
Xalapa the Garden City of Mexico is all above 3500’. It is typically described as a semi-humid forest laden tropical area with misty cloud covering that is ideal for coffee plants that are scattered here about on both small fincas (farms) and large ranchos.
Our area is located on the eastern side and beneath the volcanic peaks of the Sierra Madre Oriental.
None of that romantic description appeases me when I have to wait more than a day or two to see father sun. Hot off a three week plus visit to Puerto Escondido you would think we could endure a few cold days but, alas I have exercised my aged right to grumble about no sun and the cold.
The good news is it does seem to be turning around and we may actually live up to “The warmer season in Xalapa tends to fall between March and reaching a peak in May when the average high reaches 28 °C and low of 17°C.”
Yesterday afternoon turned bright. We jumped on Scoot Azul, our little blue China scooter, to bask under the Xico sun for much of the afternoon later the Guapa Senora Calypso joined me for a scoot over to Acmalin Restaurant for a fine dinner and later a bottle of wine and a movie.
I enjoyed chatting it up with Senor Gómez the proprietor of Acmalin making some suggestions about the menu and asking if business has been affected by the fact the town has been totally torn up with the installation of underground electrical wires. “No. business remains normal.” He reports. A fact that surprises me since if we didn’t live here I might avoid Xico altogether until this traffic mess and the hiding of wires is complete.
Little “Cruise Azul” makes easy work getting around the mess. The food was outstanding as usual. We also chatted about their mole (pasta) which is for sale in jars – just add water to gain the correct consistency and then ‘oh my’ that stuff is good!
I had suggested Acmalin Restaurant also offer their green sauce which is to die for. Senor Gómez explained that the fresh verde sauce would not stay preserved in jars suggesting he had thought this out before me.
We both had the Enmoladas de Queso smothered in Mole and glasses of Mora – ummmm good!
Yup! I have little to complain about.
We watched a documentary on Maria Sabina the magic mushroom healer highlighted in the previous entry. I had a desire to find out more about Mexico’s first lady (Mazateccurandera) of sacred hongos (magic – hallucinogenic – mushrooms).
The 80 minute documentary was mostly filmed in 1979 at her little casa in Huautla de Jimenez, Oaxaca. Sabina who died in 1985 at the age of 91 was ‘given’ to a 20 year old man at the age of 14. He died possibly at the hands of one of his mistresses 6 years later after they had 3 children. She had a total of nine.
Her second husband was killed by the son of one of his mistresses. Maria Sabina was shot twice while trying to protect one of her sons who was killed. An eventful life indeed.
This woman at 85 was smoking cigars, cigarettes, marijuana and hosting mushroom healing ceremonies for the locals and the occasional extranjero. She lived in a dirt floor tin roofed cabin at high altitude in reality and not.
A fascinating character now part of Mexican history and folk lore.
Those of you that might have further interest can find out more:
The only documentary on Maria Sabina available on DVD – MARIA SABINA, MUJER ESPIRITU (MEXICO, 1978) Described as an intimate portrait of the world-renowned Mazatec curandera and her extensive use of psilocybe mushrooms as a healing aid. Narrated by Maria’s biographer, Alvaro Estrada; directed by Nicolas Echevarria. Actually you can watch the entire thing for free here. Although it is in Spanish whereas the DVD has an English option.
We will continue to keep an eye out for sun.
Now at 11 Am there is sun. We will scoot into Coatepec to the Eco Faire where we will buy this weeks bread and cheese. Life is good! There is no place like home – unless it is Puerto Escondido or some other warm Pacific Ocean beach Stay Tuned!
Donovan, Dylan and the Beatles discovered the magic of the mushrooms in Mexico back in the 60’s. Oaxaca became the focus of those wanting to get unfocused and healed from harsh realities.
We took an alternative route heading back to Veracruz from Puerto Escondido. Actually this route is the more common; so one might say we began the ride from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido with the alternative route highway 131 and returned via the more common highway 175.
These two highways essentially run parallel ending at the southern Mexico coast Highway 200 some 65 kilometers apart. Highway 131 spills out into the middle of Puerto and 175 ends in Pochutla.
Both highways are curvaceous and scattered with unpredictable holes in the road; with the occasional fog white outs. Add to that commercial transport vans rocketing down the roads driven by absolutely insane drivers traveling at breakneck speeds. The picture painted here is dark with splashes of red. You have to be a bit insane to travel either of these routes at night. Of course your host did just that on both trips – this is not recommended.
I admit I have often besmirched the common sense suggestion to never drive in Mexico at night. These roadways as well as the one between Oaxaca City and Tuxtepec (also Highway 175) should not be driven at night. Most of these were driven at night by your fearless reporter – in a word – yikes! Did I mention that you will drive between sea level to over 9000’ during these driving routes? The first thing Anita did when we arrived home was to Google remedies for car sickness; gingerroot and peppermint oil.
I actually stopped writing at this point to approve a Comment on the previous Blog entry that included the following (for those of you that do not read comments).
Christine writes in part: “We still haven’t decided how to go to Oaxaca. I read an article that said Hwy 175 was ‘one of the most [beautiful] highways in the world.’ [We’d] like to drive ourselves and check out San Jose del Pacifico…but I don’t know if we could rent a one-way car.”
This brings us to the subject of this entry.
About midway on Highway 175 between Pochutla and Oaxaca City is the small puebla of San Jose del Pacifico. We reached this nearly 9000’ high small town after a little more than three hours driving time out of Puerto Escondido. Filled with a sense of occult expectation we arrived in the late afternoon having departed Puerto Escondido about 1:30 PM.
Even before arriving in San Jose proper there are roadside artisan shops featuring San Jose’s center piece – the mushroom. While there are many varietals in the beautiful mountain terrain surrounding San Jose the featured fungus is Los Hongos Mágicos (The Magic Mushrooms).
San Jose del Pacifico at Sunset
Maria Sabina’s actual home town Huautla de Jimenez, Oaxaca is northwest of Oaxaca City but, she has a prominent role in San Jose del Pacifico. Actually Sabina’s image appears throughout Mexico on t-shirts, cups, designer boxes, photographs and posters.
T-Shirt Spotted on the Adonquin – Puerto Escondido
Fireplace Surround – Rayito Del Sol Restaurant – San Jose
According to Wikipedia:
“María Sabina was the first contemporary Mexican curandera, defined in New Age parlance as a native shaman, to allow Westerners to participate in the healing vigil that became known as the velada, where all participants partake of the psilocybe mushroom as a sacrament to open the gates of the mind. The velada is seen as purification and as a communion with the sacred.
In 1955, the American banker and ethnomycologist R. Gordon Wasson visited her hometown of Huautla de Jimenez, Oaxaca, and experienced a velada with her. He also brought spores of the fungus, which he identified as Psilocybe mexicana, to Paris. The fungus was cultivated in Europe and its active ingredient was duplicated as the chemical psilocybin in the laboratory by Swiss chemist Albert Hofmann in 1958.
American youth began seeking out María Sabina and the “holy children” as early as 1962, and in the years that followed, thousands of counterculture mushroom seekers, scientists, and others arrived in the Sierra Mazateca, and many saw her. By 1967 more than 70 people from the US, Canada, and Western Europe were renting cabins in neighboring villages. Many of them went there directly after reading the May 13, 1957 Life Magazine article written by Wasson about his experiences.”
Today, that Life Magazine article is considered by many as the catalyst that kicked off the Psychedelic Revolution. Donovan, Dylan, the Beatles and a host of other celebrities and extranjeros have visited and written about Oaxaca’s Hongos Mágico.
We loved the little village of San Jose nestled in the mountains. We bought a wonderful wool bag for 80 pesos at Lupita’s just outside of town (the same bag was 150 pesos in San Jose central).
Lupita’s Just South of San Jose del Pacifico
In town a hotel owner, an older lady, graciously showed us a pleasant, clean room with private bath. We agreed we would rent it next visit. Along the way I ask her if she ever takes the magic mushrooms. She replied, “Yes, but they do not have an effect on me. I took it but never had a viaje [trip].”
We ate at a terrific restaurant at the back of the Cabanas San Jose Hotel and watched an incredible sunset from a nearly aerial view before heading out to many hours of night driving on Highway 175 – what a trip!
You Had to be There – But the Idea is Here. (ENLARGE HERE)
The history of the mushroom tradition, of course, goes back much further than María Sabina or the gringo Oaxacan invasions of the 1960’s, at least to about 1000 B.C., according to archaeologists. This date is based on pre-Columbian stone artifacts that have been discovered in the Mayan highland zone, stretching from the grassy highlands of western Guatemala to the piney mountains of Mexico, in southern Chiapas State. Roughly hewn and generally measuring about a foot high, the stones, which resemble mushrooms and have been dubbed “the mushroom stones” by archaeologists, are thought to be linked to religious mushroom cults that were found in Mexico at the time of the Spanish conquest.
Modern Day Mushroom Artifcats Abound in San Jose
These Fascinating Fungi Artifacts Stand More than Two Feet Tall
San Jose recognizes and touts its sacred roots and fungus. It is a must visit.
Hurry Back to San Jose del Pacifico!
We are home in Xico now resting up from our vacation. The weather here – well my fingers are numbed by the cold dampness and I am wishing we were still in warm and sunny Puerto Escondido. We are thinking January 15th to March 15th in Puerto next year. Anyone want to join us next year in renting a lavish six bedroom house with a pool?
We are ending our second visit to Puerto Escondido in the last three years – cumulatively having been here more than 5 weeks we have some recommendations.
Puerto Escondido remains a sleeper vacation spot. It is remarkably affordable – although not so much so as three years ago. I have coined it as an Imperfect Paradise. I believe that is fitting.
Playa Principal – Puerto Escondido
I recall reading a comment that if Puerto were any more laid back it would fall down – it is in fact probably not as exciting and fun packed as Cancun or even Oaxaca’s Bahías de Huatulco. The twenties something groups will not be changing their College Spring Break destination to Puerto Escondido any time soon. That written if you are looking for a relaxing, sun filled and even fun filled adult holiday that is very affordable – this is the place.
There are a number of affordable motels and hotels for short term stays – a month or more stay will open additional options and more affordable translated to cost per day. If you have been reading along you know the Calypso’s operate on the cheap – in fairness there is a broad range of accommodations. At the upper end the sky is the limit in our estimation – no need to go there. At the low end 150 pesos or about $12 U.S. is obtainable, but figuring 350-400 a day as the low end is more common. Some suggestions going from what we deem expensive to affordable:
At the far west end of Playa Zicatela Strip is the Sante Fe. Going to the extreme other end of the Strip is the Villa Bel Mar.
Hotel Santa Fe , 01-954-582-0170, an upscale hotel by Puerto standards and pricier than most local accommodations.
Hotel Mayflower , 01-954-582-0367, is an inexpensive hotel on El Adoquin favored by Europeans.
Hostel Shalom , 01-954-582-3234, is cheap, with private-room options and a swimming pool.
We liked Bungalows Zicatela in the heart of the Zicatela Strip. It is centrally located; has clean rooms, and an adjoining restaurant that will appear on our best restaurants list. They have a discount for surfers – here I don’t know how that works – but you can rent surf boards right around the corner – maybe rent one for an hour at check-in? This is an especially good selection if you do not have transportation. Telephone is 01-954-582-0798.
The Rockaway Hotel is quite reasonable and also very central – it is a bit noisier with music several times a week.
Two options that will increase cost are air conditioning (not required in our estimation) and hot water (nice to have but with a little planning not necessary – shower in the afternoon). If you need either of these things be sure to ask. Television and kitchenettes as well as community facilities are available. We didn’t have a need for television. Our hotel had a community kitchen and dining area. We made coffee and kept a few items in the refrigerator. We actually bought a pan and a spatula late on in our stay to reduce the eating out food bill (next time we take cooking items). We also will carry one of those camping solar hot water bags next trip.
Restaurants:
Carmen’s El Cafecito , 01-954-582-0516, is a bustling spot at the east end of Playa Zicatela; great spot for breakfast – good coffee and pastries.
Restaurante El Jardin , 01-954-582-2315, is our HIT PICK Zicatela restaurant with delicious vegetarian fare and great smoothies. Any meal will be a pleasure. Look for Don Franco – we loved the guy.
Along the strip is Calypso Restaurant (no relations) that includes a fine art gallery and higher end food.
Of course we loved Bistro 28 and its owners – Do not go to Puerto without visiting Meg and Rafa – HIGH END HIT PICK.
Roland’s Siesta Restaurant on the beach is very good food.
Restaurant Los Crotos , 01-954-582-0025, on El Adoquin, features romantic terrace dining.
Danny’s Terrace on the west end with access via the El Adoquin. Terrific food – try the coconut shrimp –wow!
Entertainment: The Split Coconut is off the beaten track a bit. This has a hotel, bar and lots of entertainment – but you will need to catch a cab or a ride on a Collectivo (small pickup with covered wagon appeal – jump in the back for 4 pesos.
El Adoquin is a lively promenade that parallels Playa Principal. It serves as Puerto’s de facto boardwalk. It has stalls crammed with souvenirs, beach toys, woven skirts, hammocks, drawstring pants and bikinis. The Adoquin draws nightly throngs of flirting teens, families and backpackers staying in nearby hostels and hotels. Want to stay around there checkout Le P’Tit Hotel – looks quite charming.
We went several times to the Rockaway to enjoy local bands. There is late night at Uh La La (practically across the street from Bugalows Zicatela). If late night music and drinking is your thing – this is the spot.
Playa Manzanillo and Puerto Angelito occupy a cove to the west. Crammed with seafood shacks and frequented by busloads of visitors, Angelito is hardly an oasis. Buses can’t get to the more-serene Manzanillo, despite an ill-conceived road that is so steep, rain sluicing down its surface has on occasion wiped out seaside businesses.
We opted for the farther west Playa Carrizalillo. There is a 167-step walk way descent down a cliff leading to a spectacular crescent of sand nestled in a rocky cove. An inexpensive water taxi ride from Playa Principal (west end of Zicatela Strip Beach) is an option for getting to Carrizalillo, but choppy surf can turn the brief hop into a trial. This beach is protected and safe to swim. There are chairs, umbrellas, food and libations to be had. We think it is worth the hike down.
In town you will find a Chedraui supermarket and just about anything else you might require.
There is a bus station and even a nearby airport. Getting there is a chief drawback. Fly to Mexico City from there, Aerocaribe airlines offers one flight daily five days a week to Puerto Escondido. Puerto Escondido can also be reached by bus, van or car from Mexico City. The drive is a trial from Oaxaca City. Consider taking commercial transportation as it is easy to spend a week or even two without ever needing more than a short cab ride.
We drove there and will drive back. We have had a spectacular time and hope you enjoyed the reports. We even got to see the Green Flash. Please add to the information if you have stayed or will be staying soon. If you have questions ask – we know where there is laundry, scuba diving, fishing boats, a spa, shipping, the Mercado and some interesting side trips – all this hard to cover in a few Blog entries. What did you like, where did you go and how did you find it overall? Please comment in. Next time you will hear from us at home in Xico, Veracruz. Stay Tuned!
A hammock transcends a fun novelty to an absolute necessity in Puerto Escondido. You will read, rest, relax, swing and sleep many hours in a hammock under the Puerto Escondido sun. Trust me on this.
While we own a couple hammocks back home, we arrived without. Some research was in order because hammock sales are high-pressure events along the beaches, sidewalks, eateries and tiendas around these parts.
A couple of fine models were hanging under the porches of a few guests at our hotel. One durable hammock was more than 30 years old; another elegant example a few years old – but at the high end of the price range (prices range from 200-1500 pesos).
Hammocks Hangin’ Out
At the beginning of our quest, we knew only one thing for sure – we wanted a hammock that would accommodate two. Everyone say “Ah that is so sweet!” and we will move on.
Truthfully, there simply was not enough air space on our motel room porch to fit two swinging magic carpets. Then again, there is something definitely to be said for being thrust against your partner as you sway through a gentle breeze coming off the ocean a few hundred yards away – and the sunsets…well, you get the idea.
Therefore, the scene was set in our minds. Now all we needed was a little smart shopper savvy about hammocks.
You might be able to gather from the aforementioned broad price range that the purchase of a hammock is far from simple. They consist of one or more cloth panels, or a woven network of twine or thin rope stretched with rope like strings between two firm anchor points. You have your cotton rope, cloth and nylon materials. You can have a hammock with a spreader bar (a piece of wood that keeps the material spread open). There are single, matrimonial and humongous (larger than matrimonial) sizes to consider.
After you have weighed in on how many you wish to swing with – you must account or count the number of double strings that extend from the hanging loop to the “resting platform”. You should also consider that a double layer weave would be stronger and more comfortable. Cotton washes up better and gets dirtier easier. The sales force loses me when they start discussing body sweat – but that fact remains. Overall length consideration comes into play – so you can already see that purchasing a hammock is a complex situation.
We decided on a Mayan nylon hammock. These are the most typical around here however, the cotton rope hammocks are usually available from the same vendors.
We learned that for the size hammock we wanted (to accommodate two – ah gee) that 120 or more pairs of strings attaching the hanging loop to the resting area should be considered essential.
Double Panel, 200+ Pairs of Strings Hangin’ Fast
With new knowledge and a tape measure we headed out to shop – this sounds easier than it is in that the very high-pressure character of the sales force makes it hard to get away from each vendor while gathering price and quality information. I mean it is like trying to get off a hook that has gone clear through your jaw.
The other night on the Adoquin we visited several shops having been advised by a hammock purchasing expert at the hotel that it was the place to buy. The one we really liked was priced at 650 pesos – “A bargain!” the seller advised. The seller was not budging from this price. We stretched it out checked the weave and the string count, but we did not buy; not yet.
The following day the folks that had gathered us under their Mexican wings assured us that any price given would be 200 pesos higher than a Mexicana would pay.
Armed with that sage advice we returned to the Adoquin for yet another go-round at the shops. The first shop on the Adoquin happened to be the last from the night before – the same hombre was setting out his wares in front of the store. He had a tall stick that he held skyward to attach the hammock to a line about 12 feet above the pavement. He recognized us immediately.
When you return they know they have a bite on the line – now to just set that hook.
Our fellow figured to close the deal he would offer to sell the very same 650 pesos hammock from the night before for a mere 550 pesos – a 100-peso savings before we could even start to haggle.
I now knew I had an interested seller.
The seller had made the first thrust. I parried putting us into a priority position where by I made a reposte thrusting forward in a lunge taking yet a closer look. Then a redoublement suggesting I had seen this same hammock for a mere 400 pesos further on. Here my opponent sensed an absence of blade was about to occur; this as we diverted our eyes and began to make motions to move on.
“OK then” he said nearly inaudibly. They do this in defeat. “What?” I asked as if I hadn’t heard for sure. “You will take 400 pesos?”
Here is where the act of pouting and defeat gathers steam. Now hardly audible a “Si” was expressed by my opponent. Our compound attack had brought defeat to the hombre.
He neatly tied our colorful Mayan hammock with its 130+ pairs of strings, double paneled nylon coated with many colors and larger than matrimonial design into a manageable bundle placing it in a sleek plastic bag. Victory was ours!
Victory Hangs In Front of Our Door
You have to know how good it felt. Later that day an hombre on the beach seemed to be offering us the same hammock for 350 pesos – but I would not go into details to ascertain that our victory may have been hollow by 50 pesos.
Hammock Mandatory – Book & Libation Optional
There is more to this story including a drop to the floor during a relaxing duel swing out. I will save that for another time. Stay Tuned!
At the current extreme southeast end of Zicatela Beach Strip the last restaurant is “El Jardin” (The Garden). El Jardin is not quite one year old (one in May). It is just possible the last is first in quality eateries along the Strip.
We found ourselves returning several times in spite of trying to visit as many restaurants as possible in order to give you a good review of Puerto Escondido restaurants.
The other morning as we approached the entrance to El Jardin there was an hombre sleeping on the sidewalk. Taking an alternative route, we avoided a fellow selling cigars and another hawking colorful fish mobiles. In Puerto Escondido, mesmerizing views of the Pacific Ocean co-exist with roadside trash, stray beach dogs strolling on the beach, and any oceanfront siesta is sure to be interrupted by a endless stream of vendors displaying everything from surreal carved masks to colorful hammocks.
El Jardin owner Franco is easy to engage about his restaurant and Puerto Escondido – which he knows well, having been here nearly before the completion of paved roads in Puerto, when the fishing village and former coffee port became known as one of the world’s premier surfing spots in the 1970’s. In truth Franco and his family have been here 28 years. “You want to hear stories about Puerto Escondido? I have many.” Franco cheerfully declares.
Don Franco Greets Us
A former an Italian fashion designer, Franco spent the first 15 years in Puerto operating a fashion establishment on the Adoquin. Since then he has been a restaurateur in four different locations along the Zicatela Strip. Don Franco truly is a Renaissance man!
Having been to two of the four El Jardin locations I can say the latest edition is inviting, airy and warmly decorated; perhaps the best designed of the Strip eateries.
Here and there at El Jardin there are signs of Franco’s twelve year journey as a Born Again Christian. He beams when the subject of his faith comes to the fore. He proudly points out that our table has a quote from John 7:38 (…there shall flow living water) obscurely painted on the tabletop.
El Jardin has an excellent menu providing many choices. Try the Four Cheeses Macaroni for only 60 pesos ($4.68 U.S.). Don Franco explains there are actually five cheeses, “Cinco Quesos just did not sound good!” I noted a gleam in his eye overhearing him tell a table of diners that he pays 50% more for his cheese to provide the best. The food at El Jardin bears out his quest for excellence.
We noticed they have a La Pavoni espresso maker similar to our own. I had an excellently prepared cappuccino with one of their exquisite desserts.
There is a marvelous wood burning oven and a large gas fired pizza oven at the back of the rear dining room. The kitchen looks capable and clean. Franco told us, “I started preparing food that would not get you ill before anyone else here.” It has gone from food safe from intestinal stress to gourmet dining at its best; and at moderate prices – fulfilling Puerto Escondido’s reputation of being an affordable imperfect paradise.
El Jardin’s menu includes many vegetarian offerings unlike most of your carne-pollo-tortilla restaurants. It truly is must stop along the Zicatela Strip. If you are fortunate enough to be there when Franco is scurrying about (a very likely situation) do not be timid about engaging him – he is a delightful fellow; and as for the food – you will not find any better.
Soon the Calypso Frugal Travelers will be heading back to Xico. The three weeks we have had in Puerto have been special – a warming from the cold, damp winter. Life is good! Stay Tuned.
Canadians and Americans typically have a very one dimensional perspective of Mexico. The truth is quite different.
Our experience here in Puerto Escondido is quite different from our home in Xico, Veracruz.
Next to the difference in attire (shorts worn here year round), the most remarkable difference perhaps is the lack of shrines and churches.
In the Xalapa area and Xico in particular you will encounter a capilla (small chapel) or iglesia (church) on virtually every street – here in Puerto I have yet to see either.
This isn’t to suggest a lack of religiosity here. Locals flock a few hours north of Puerto Escondido to Santa Catarina Juquila; and often crawl on hands and knees the last two kilometers to the iglesia. Here there is the Sanctuary of Juquila where a famous statue of the Virgin Mary is prayed to petitioning for one’s needs or desires.
The one-foot (30 cm) tall statue survived a fire in 1633 that destroyed the entire village where it was located at the time. At the beginning of the 18th century, the statue was moved to Santa Catarina Juquila where the sanctuary was built for it. Thousands of the faithful visit this statue from across the state of Oaxaca, other parts of Mexico and beyond its borders. Read more here.
We have no Ocean for a vista in Xico, but we do have Pico de Orizaba and other mountain ranges. Here in Puerto we do not see tree lined roads interspersed with coffee plants and banana trees. Mexico isn’t all cacti and sandy beaches.
Most of the Escondido citizenry speak some English; all most all can convert numbers from Spanish to English – this is after all a tourist community. In the Xalapa area seldom will you encounter a person able to even speak a few words in English. Here you will have to be more cautious about discussing your bargaining process in front of vendors – if you are discussing offering less they have probably heard it before and understand.
One Mexican couple at the hotel we are staying has kind of taken us under their wing. Manuel and Elisa had lived here in Puerto for about 20 years, but now live in Tabasco, Chiapas. Yesterday we went shopping in town for hammock hardware (more on this soon) and to shop at the Mercado. Anita was after some cilantro.
We arrived at a booth selling cilantro. The 2 peso bunch of the green leafy vegetable gathered by a woman vendor appeared limp and more yellow than green – unappealing. Anita decided to pass on the purchase.
Later we arrived back at the same cilantro vendor for Elisa. The seller complained to Elisa that Anita would not buy her cilantro. Some feather smoothing was performed by Elisa.
Elisa explained to Anita that often times these people will refuse to sell anything to you after one of their products has been besmirched. Some will be easily offended. Competition is stiff on the streets of Mexico. Many sell the same things sold at the tienda next-door.
We have been on a learning curve and hunt for a hammock (a story in itself). Elisa advised us that whatever price is given to us it will be 200 pesos higher than what would be quoted to a Mexican. Here you have but to utter the words, “Gringo Precio” to illicit a smile from a Mexican vendor. Sure enough when we got down to the serious bargaining for a hammock the end price was 200 pesos less.
The most prominent street vendor items are hammocks, bags, necklaces, colorful mobiles, litho painted parchments, blankets and serapes, and cigars.
Along with a more cosmopolitan flavor on the surface people are not as friendly and open as they are in Xico. Every store and in every doorway you don’t see a Virgin of Guadalupe poster, statue or shrine dedicated to the First Lady of Mexico.
Last night we had dinner at Danny’s Terrace over at the Adoquín. The coconut shrimp was delicious. The restaurant was packed with gringos of all flavors: Europeans, Canadians, and Americans filled the terrace. The wait people all spoke a little English.
After we ate we walked along the Adoquín (AH-DOH-KEEN) which is dedicated to vendors selling to tourists. Three years ago when we were here you had to walk in the street as the sidewalks were full of vendors selling in front of the more established store fronts.
The store front owners organized. Now the sidewalks are clear. A block over a side street has been assigned to the non-renting vendors. And I saw this symbol sign – a first for me:
There is a preponderance of Canadians that have found Puerto Escondido – and they are apparently not afraid to make the loooong trip here (and back). Here is a dedicated Blog to a visit here by a group of four Canadians. Now their link is on Global Post (from such simple beginnings
Danny’s Terrace at Hotel Rincón de Pacífico is a hit pick with the locals and us. A must visit when in Puerto Escondido. Try the Coconut Shrimp. Come back to read about El Jardin at the end of Zicatela Strip. It is one of the best restaurants in Puerto. Stay Tuned!
Roland from the Netherlands is a tall drink of water. He was a bit slow to warm to us, but once we got into conversation he blossomed into a very affable raconteur. He is but 38 years old having escaped the Netherlands weather landing in Puerto Escondido’s Zicatela Strip some four years ago. Along with a Mexican partner, Roland is the owner of the aptly named “La Siesta Restaurant and Bar”.
La Siesta Restaurant & Bar
La Siesta is on the northwest end of Zicatela Beach, just a few palapas down from Bistro 28. It is a bit less gourmet than the Bistro however as Roland explains, “We serve quality food from lobsters to grilled Huatunango (red snapper). The location is [a] beauty at the beginning of Zicatela beach with sunset right in front (in the winter that is). Business partner is Maruka who likes the good life.”
How does a young computer engineer far from the Netherlands come to Southern Mexico to build a couple restaurants on the beach, build a house and a get-a-way? Life happens for Roland in the ‘present’ he explains. He saw so many people working on plans for the future while ignoring living for today. A visit to his web site will give you an expanded idea of what this busy hombre is up to.
La Siesta Restaurant’s Dueño – Roland
He has Omar, a one and a half year old son. He is currently building a second stage to his home in Puerto not far from the office (La Siesta). He also has a retreat in the works, “Pictures do not do justice to the beauty.” Obviously living a busy life in the present – but he suggests six months of the year here is hammock hanging season – I don’t see a lot of hammock time in Roland’s future – but then he is a live-for-today kind of guy.
Laid back with an edge, It doesn’t take a lot to get Roland revved up; talking about his philosophy for life and what he is currently up to is interesting and great fun to hear about.
Last night we had some of his side dishes after a walk on the beach. This morning we had a satisfying grande breakfast. Anita had huevos rancheros. I had chiliquillas with eggs. Both are substantial and tasty; Roland suggests they are complete meals that will last you for the entire day – no argument here.
The breakfast entrees were a step up from The Bungalows breakfast previously reported. La Siestas’ cook has been with them for more than a year and a half. “We pay a little more than average to our help for Zicatela Beach in order to keep them happy and to stay with us.”
The menu has been developed by Roland’s business partner Doña Maruka. Of course Roland has input – you will recognize his European influence. Prices are mid-level and surely worth it.
From the Beach – Look for the International Flags
It is hard to separate the man from his food; however Roland is wise for his years, interesting to talk with on many fronts; and the food will not disappoint. Don’t miss an opportunity to visit La Siesta Restaurant and Bar when in Puerto Escondido. We recommend it. Stay Tuned!
If the weather wasn’t so darned great it might just be monotonous. Up there in the U.S. it looks like things are coming apart at the seams weather wise. We continue our mission to try lots of restaurants and beaches in order to report to you – someone has to do it – any hands? I’ll stop gloating now.
There is a hotel and restaurant about midway along the strip on the opposite side of the road to the beach. Bungalows Zicatela lays claim to being the “Surfer’s Home.” If you are a surfer this seems to fit as you are mere meters from some of the best surfing in the world.
Bungalows Zicatela the Surfer’s Home – Zicatela Strip
But we are here to talk about food. The Calypso’s have eaten several times now at Bungalows Zicatela. This definitely has to be the best breakfast deal in town.
Fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee with refills, liberal portions of scrambled or fried eggs and potatoes, fruit, bread, and a couple hot cakes with real honey (in my case) or syrup. All for less than $4 U.S. It is all good – no shortcuts taken on preparation or quality.
That all makes a grand brunch if you are light eaters like the Calypso’s. You will be fed and watered until dinner time.
Last night before a long walk on the beach we enjoyed the chico (small) version of the Bungalow’s shrimp cocktail. Brimming with fresh shrimp, avocado, cilantro and of course cocktail sauce. This is nearly a meal in itself for 60 pesos (less than $5 U.S.).
The shrimp cocktails and a couple of margaritas while watching the white waves crashing across the dark panorama in a balmy 80 degrees – well it just doesn’t get any better than that. Stay Tuned!
At the top of one of the busiest tourist streets in Puerto Escondido you will find these two businesses directly across the street from each other. I suppose it suggests do this or you will need that? Curious how these kinds of business gravitate towards each other.
Maria Sabina (ENLARGE HERE)
Stay Tuned!
